A Breath of novelty

Fom Saint-Tropez to Monaco, good restaurants appear...

Fom Saint-Tropez to Monaco, good restaurants appear, change hands, win new accolades. A road full of flavour, to be followed blindfolded !

Our tour begins in Saint-Tropez, more precisely at the Bastide of the same name. Here, a new chef has just taken over the ovens at the restaurant L’Olivier. Franck Broc proposes unique dishes reflecting his marvellous, elaborate cuisine : “foie gras de canard confit” old-fashioned style, sweet-and-sour “mousseline d’ipomée”, big shrimps with mild spices… At the Hôtel du Castellet, only 5 years after it opened, 34 year-old chef Nicolas Sale has pocketed his first star in the Michelin Guide. In the kitchens of Le Monte-Cristo, he demonstrates expertise and refinement, working with equal pleasure on products from both land and sea. On his menu, semi-cooked “foie gras de canard” with thin slices of green figs rub shoulders with crisp crayfish from the Brittany coast, quickly braised “Enoki de Thaïlande” style. In Nice, the main event this spring was the inauguration, or rather rebirth, of La Réserve. Jouni, the Finn on the Riviera, has awakened the sleeping beauty. Not one address, La Réserve is composed of three settings with a shared concept. On the ground floor, Le Bistrot de la Réserve offers a relaxed atmosphere. Jouni adds a dash of freedom to the menu, enjoys himself and allows himself a little fantasy. On the same floor, the Bar de La Réserve proposes a medley of menus, little delicacies in the style of Catalan “tapas”, modernised Jouni-style ! The gastronomic restaurant is on the first floor with an unimpeded view : classic recipes exploited to extremes and creatively explored, and the arrival of a promising executive chef : Xavier Burelle. Everything’s on the menu which changes every day, depending on what’s available at the market and the chef’s own inspiration.

The new-look Réserve has opened. New decor, a new concept and a wider array of offerings, with Jouni, the region’s best-known Finn, at the helm.

The new-look Réserve has opened. New decor, a new concept and a wider array of offerings, with Jouni, the region’s best-known Finn, at the helm.

The Bastide de Saint-Tropez has just brought in a new chef : Franck Broc. Another challenge for this culinary globe-trotter.

The Bastide de Saint-Tropez has just brought in a new chef : Franck Broc. Another challenge for this culinary globe-trotter.

The work of the Robuchon-Cussac duo, John Dory with all the savours of the South, as pleasing to the eye as to the palate.

The work of the Robuchon-Cussac duo, John Dory with all the savours of the South, as pleasing to the eye as to the palate.

Until February 1st, the name of Didier Aniès was associated with La Coupole, the Hôtel Mirabeau’s restaurant in Monte-Carlo. Today, he is chef of the restaurants at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, Le Cap and Le Club Dauphin. Elegance, sobriety and a constant search for authentic flavours are the basic features of his cuisine. Together with creations such as refined lasagna with caviar from Aquitaine, young leaks with a drop of olive-oil or sole with “aubergine confite” for Le Cap, while waiting for Easter when the poolside Dauphin re-opens. Further east, with a sweeping view of the Bay of Menton, Jacques Chibois’ former bistro embarks upon a second life. At the helm is Mauro Colagreco, consecrated “Revelation of the Year” by the Gault et Millau Guide. The chef blends tradition and innovation, finding inspiration in herbs and the Mediterranean itself. As witnessed by his “Saint-Jacques de la Côte d’Emeraude” with cress and lemons from Menton, or his wild fish caught that very morning. In Monaco, Joël Robuchon and Christophe Cussac, already blessed with a star, have been awarded another by the Michelin Guide, rewarding their modern concept of an open kitchen serving Tepanyaki. These two accomplices who create the recipes of tomorrow take inspiration from what’s in the air as well as from their guests. To be savoured at least once in one’s Epicurean life : slices of lobster in an unctuous polenta with a gratin of sea-urchin coral. Another treat for gourmets is the choice of small tasting portions, ideal for getting a feeling for high gastronomy slightly off the beaten track. Memorable moments to look forward to…

Hôtel du Castellet Resort, RN8, 3001 route des Hauts du Camp, Le Castellet (04 94 983 777). Lunch : 40 €. Gourmet Menu : 90 €. A la carte : approx. 98 €. Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat, 71 boulevard Général de Gaulle, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (04 93 76 50 50). Menu “Saveurs” : 115 €. Springtime Menu : 65 €. A la carte : approx. 142 €. Jouni, atelier du goût, 60 boulevard Franck-Pilatte, Nice (04 97 08 14 80). La Bastide de Saint-Tropez, route des Carles, Saint-Tropez (04 94 55 82 55). Truffle Menu : 55 €. A la carte : approx. 70 €. Le Mirazur, 30 avenue Aristide-Briand, Menton (04 92 41 86 86). Lunch formula : 25 €. Menu (mid-day only) : 35 €. Discovery Menu (evenings) : 70 €. A la carte : approx. 50 €. Restaurant Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo, 4 avenue de la Madone, Monaco (00 377 93 15 15 10). Club Menu : 65 €. Discovery Menu : 160 €. A la carte : approx. 130 €.

By Cécile Olivéro - photos : press