A springtime full of surprises
New addresses, new chefs, yet again the French Riviera surprises and enchants !
Among all the openings, reopenings, and changes in chefs, restaurants extend the promise of a flamboyant summer. At Théoule, a new 5-star hotel has just opened its doors, the Tiara Yaktsa. The hotel’s restaurant, a mix between East and West, enjoys an exceptional setting between the red rocks of the Estérel hills, green pinewoods and the deep blue sea. Its chef, Florent Benoit, was a pupil of Christian Willer before spending two years with Stéphane Raimbault at L’Oasis. Here he opts for simplicity and taste : a deliberately short menu, recipes reflecting what’s freshest at the market, and an on-going search for quality. This summer, a tartare of sea-bass with green pepper, citronella and virgin olive-oil, or tender veal cutlets marinaded in lemon and thyme with a risotto of organic pearl barley... Born in 1953, Félix soon became an institution Cannes. After a long slumber, Sleeping Beauty woke up one day in March 2009 with new decor designed by interior architect Richard Guilhem, and a team also revised and corrected. Manning the ovens, Nicolas Rondelli proves that youth and talent go hand-in-hand. He successfully reinterprets - among other things - the famous “tartare de caviar” Félix-style. You can savour his recipes on the recently fitted terrace, facing the Mediterranean. Not far away, in Mougins, Le Moulin de Mougins welcomes Sébastien Chambru. “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” 2007, this professional with an impeccable career has taken over the kitchens created by Roger Vergé in 1969. “The walls are laden with history : it is the home of Roger Vergé, and together with the team I will do everything possible to bring his soul back here. I in fact dedicate several recipes to the Master, with his greatest creations.” As for Stéphane Arnal, he has left the Moulin de Mougins to join Les Vieux Murs, on the ramparts of Old Antibes. Both inside and on the terrace, a Venetian spirit rules the day, a blend of romanticism and relaxation. The chef focuses on seasonal produce, concocts Mediterranean cuisine with the accent of Provence : terrine of “foie gras” with pear chutney, sea-bass cooked in its skin with poivrade artichokes, veal cutlets with sage and seasonal gnocchi, juice on the side... In Monaco, the Fairmont Monte-Carlo has just treated itself to a new gastronomic gem. L’Horizon by name, it has taken over the hotel’s seventh floor and transports its guests to seventh heaven ! A stunning 360° view, an executive chef whose inventiveness and whimsical spirit are widely renowned, the ingredients are all there for making the place an essential address in the Principality. “Chic & ethical” is Maryan Gandon’s formula to define this restaurant aimed at ecology-minded citizens. As proof : everything (waiters’ uniforms, menus...) derives from so-called “eco-friendly” production, the kitchen brigade has committed itself, in partnership with Monaco’s Museum of Oceanography, to using non-threatened species, and the chef gives priority to local produce. Fruit and vegetables are grown in the hotel’s gardens, in the hinterland, and will be put in jars for use throughout the year. And what will Maryan Gandon propose ? Homemade gnocchi with poivrade artichokes, “Carnaroli” risotto with asparagus and fresh peas, fresh sardines with quinoa and a mild pepper emulsion. A detail of the utmost importance : you can eat and drink at L’Horizon, at any hour of the day and until midnight.
Carnet
Félix, 63 La Croisette, Cannes (04 93 94 00 61). Lunch formula from 24 €. Carte : approx 80 €. Le Moulin de Mougins, avenue Notre Dame de Vie, Mougins (04 93 75 78 24). « Le déjeuner au moulin » : 49 €. Dîner, menu "Grand Classique" from 95 € to 150 €. Les Vieux Murs, 15 promenade Amiral de Grasse, Antibes (04 93 34 06 73). Déjeuner : 29 € (entrée + plat ou plat + dessert) ; Gourmet menu : 44 € ; Sampling dinner menu : 70 € ; carte : environ 65 €. L’Horizon, Fairmont Monte Carlo, 12 avenue des Spélugues, Monaco (00 377 93 50 65 00). Carte : from 12 € to 58 €. Tiara Yaktsa, 42 avenue de Miramar, Théoule-sur-Mer (04 93 75 05 05).
By Cécile Olivero.
