An ode to truffles
The truffle ignites the imagination of chefs and titillates the taste-buds.
The queen of all mushrooms, the truffle ignites the imagination of chefs and titillates the taste-buds. Where to sniff them out…
Black or white, summer or winter, botanists have identified about thirty different truffles. The most well-known is the Périgord variety, considered as a benchmark for the “tuber melanosporum”. They’re also found in Provence, Le Languedoc and the Rhône-Alpes region. The white Alba truffle, known as the “Italian truffle” (which mostly grows in Piedmont), is thus white or pinkish white and has an incomparable fragrance (very rare, and thus very expensive, it has become a real cult object).
On the Côte d’Azur, the specialist in the field is Bruno. Who, in fact, christened one of his establishments “Terre de Truffes”… This chic little bistro proposes an open truffle sandwich (very popular), potatoes with grey truffle cream from Burgundy and the essential risotto with white Alba truffle cream. When you leave, you can prolong your enjoyment by calling at the grocery. New items include “roustide” with olives, almonds and truffles, flap mushroom and white truffle cream, and a fondue of white truffles. In a different style, a restaurant this time, and further afield, in Lorgues, this chef only known by his first name works with the precious mushroom in unexpected ways : Chez Bruno, you will sample truffles in flaky pastry, in risotto, of course, accompanied by stuffed onions and potatoes… Expect a big surprise, almost akin to awe.
In Grasse, someone else is fascinated by the subject. Every year, Jacques Chibois, chef and owner of the Bastide Saint-Antoine, devotes a whole day to it (the next is already planned for January 15th, 2006). And truffles are given a special place in his recipes. His “Senteurs” menu proposes several versions : flap mushrooms and green beans with “foie gras“ and summer truffles, monkfish with fresh peas and a fondue of spring onions with truffles and their juice, morel mushrooms with Romanesco cabbage tips in egg yoke with truffles… Glancing though the menu, you’ll discover other suggestions ; violet asparagus in an icy sauce of truffles and “foie gras”, or fresh lobster with asparagus and an olive-oil emulsion spiked with truffles.
It’s the season
Stéphane Raimbault at L’Oasis in Mandelieu makes a point of observing the seasons and their produce. In the fall, he goes shopping for truffles too. If you can only taste one of his recipes based on this extraordinary ingredient, don’t hesitate : it has to be the braised Bresse pullet with celery hearts and Saint-Jean truffles. A promising name that keeps its promise ! Then, in one restaurant on the Riviera after another, you’ll also come across : fillet of beef with “foie gras de canard” and a truffle sauce at La Maison de Marie, “foie gras” with white truffles at La Villa, and a “crépinette” of quail stuffed with goose liver, green cabbage and truffle juice, and scrambled eggs with truffles at La Petite Maison. All specialities which have helped to establish the reputation of these addresses. Finally, if the idea appeals to you, there’s nothing stopping you from tracking down the black diamond yourself and launching yourself into its culinary preparation ! From November to March, Richerenches, in Provence, is home to the biggest truffle market in Europe. As unrepentant fans well know !
Address-book
La Bastide Saint-Antoine, 48 avenue Henri-Dunant, Grasse (04 93 70 94
94). Lunchtime menu : 53 €. Menu Senteurs : 130 €. Menu en Fête (Sundays) : 140 €. Carte : approx. 100 €. La Maison de Marie, 5 rue Masséna, Nice (04 93 82 15 93). Carte : approx. 40 €. La Petite Maison, 11 rue Saint-François-de-Paule, Nice (04 93 92 59 59). Carte : from 30 €. Closed Sundays. La Villa, 14 rue de l’Abbaye, Vieux-Nice (04 93 13 41 77). Menus : 17 and 23 €. Carte : from 30 €. Le Paris-Rome, 79 Porte de France, Menton (04 93 35 73 45). Lunchtime formula 24 €. Menu carte : 34 €. Menu Dégustation : 60 €. Closed Mondays. L’Oasis, rue Honoré-Carle, Mandelieu-La Napoule (04 93 49 95 52). Carte : approx. 90 €. Restaurant chez Bruno, 2350 route des Arcs, Lorgues (04 94 85 93 93). Terre de Truffes, 11 rue Saint-François-de-Paule, Nice (04 93 62 07 68). Carte : approx. 40 €.
By Cécile Olivéro - photos press
