Autumn terrasses

It's called an Indian Summer, this fall still sunny and warm, when it’s really pleasant to have lunch and even dinner outside. It offers privileged moments before we settle down around the hearth. The sky and the sea for our horizon ; intense blue, a unique colour after the summer heat haze. To our right, Cap d'Antibes, to the left, the ramparts of the Old Town. The location is unique, and Le Bastion with its contemporary terraces offers fans of appealing settings and tasty dishes a feast worthy of the name. Weather premitting, we enjoy a view of the sea while savouring recipes from here and elsewhere, or “Bistrot façon Gastro” dishes. Later in the season, Vincent Halby welcomes guests to the terrace with its Provençal fountain, more protected but equally enjoyable.

For a more bucolic atmosphere, the hill-country offers some fine addresses. At the foot of the village of Mougins, far from the bustling towns, L’Amandier de Mougins (formerly one of Roger Vergé’s two addresses) imposes its countrified style. Here, we appreciate the rural side of Mougins, green and refreshing. In Vence itself, L’Auberge des Templiers is now an institution. Regulars love its patio, a luxuriant parenthesis in the town centre, where they savour the restaurant’s elegance and the cuisine, full of Stéphane Demichelis’ inventiveness. In the fall, the chef bases his recipes on truffles and mushrooms (try the sautéed mushrooms and “foie gras”). At a slightly lower altitude, in Saint-Paul de Vence, Frédérik and Nathalie Widenfels have taken over Le Tilleul, reviving it both body and soul. Guests sit at table on the little square where stands the ancient tree that gave the restaurant its name : if it gets a bit cool, take advantage of the shawl provided by the master and mistress of the house. In your plate at lunchtime, a gastro-bistro menu which, in the evenings, forgets the bistrot concept. You then enjoy an excellent veal stew or St. Jacques and crunchy vegetables from the wok, while the nearby or more distant hills light up after dusk.

On the sea or ramparts side, Le Bastion is highly appreciated in all four seasons. Cuisine “From Here and Elsewhere” which tears down culinary frontiers for our greater enjoyment !

On the sea or ramparts side, Le Bastion is highly appreciated in all four seasons. Cuisine “From Here and Elsewhere” which tears down culinary frontiers for our greater enjoyment !

Le Tilleul, a charming rendez-vous with a terrace just inside the ramparts.

Le Tilleul, a charming rendez-vous with a terrace just inside the ramparts.

A leafy setting at the heart of town, an elegant patio and inventive dishes of real finesse : that’s the Auberge des Templiers, run by Stéphane and Elena Demichelis.

A leafy setting at the heart of town, an elegant patio and inventive dishes of real finesse : that’s the Auberge des Templiers, run by Stéphane and Elena Demichelis.

Carnet

Auberge des Templiers, 39 avenue Joffre, Vence (04 93 58 06 05). starting 60 €. L’Amandier de Mougins, place des Patriotes, Mougins (04 93 90 00 91). Lunch menu : 24 €. Menu Saveurs : 29 €. "Plaisirs menu" : 44 €. Le Bastion, 1 avenue Général Maizière, Antibes (04 93 34 59 86). « Ici et Ailleurs » Menu : 40 €. Carte : approx 70 €. Le Tilleul, place du Tilleul, Saint-Paul de Vence, starting at 30 €.

By Cécile Olivero.