Chic and charm
Soft lighting, background music, refined cuisine, a recipe for success !
Subdued lighting, background music, refined cuisine… All one needs for a dinner to become a memorable event. So say the chefs…
It all begins, of course, with the setting, whether traditional, baroque or trendy. The saying “Never mind the packaging, it’s the content that counts” isn’t borne out here. You begin to feel good as soon as you see a dining-room bathed in soft glowing light. “Every night” we’re told at the Columbus in Monaco, “we light candles all over the lobby, from the lounge to the bar, to create a cosy atmosphere”. The same attention to detail is visible at La Villa des Lys, the gastronomic restaurant at the Majestic Barrière Hotel ; at night, all kinds of candles and lighting effects enhance the decor designed by Jacques Garcia and the sumptuous tables. At Le Grand Balcon, a close collaborator of the same Jacques Garcia, Jacques Michelis, has opted for comfy armchairs, delicate lighting and a really intimate setting. Then, of course, a dinner wouldn’t be chic without champagne. As an aperitif, “The most popular,” says Christian Plumail of L’Univers, backed up by Alain Parodi of Lou Cigalon : “The perfect companion for all kinds of appetizers”. At Fouquet’s Cannes, they go one step further, changing the list of the nectar of the gods every single month, for the greater pleasure of fans of sparkling bubbles. And it often happens that this noble wine gets itself invited for the entire meal, accompanying the offerings of inspired chefs. At Bruno Oger’s table, you relish a “vol-au-vent” with a blanquette of crab and verbena tartare or a turbot sauté with hazelnuts. Christophe Mantel, of the restaurant of the same name, will treat you to lobster ravioli or risottos which follow seasonal produce (currently, black truffles and the white variety from Alba). At the Columbus, the scallop of pan-fried “foie gras” with a velvety chestnut mousse is to die for. The talented and inventive Alain Parodi brings back forgotten vegetables, such as marrow, in his Saint-Jacques scallops with marrow juice and fresh clementines. Alain Llorca at Le Moulin de Mougins goes even further. “I’ve always felt,” he declares, “that putting up a fight between old cuisine and new cuisine serves no purpose”. No longer said than done ! At the Moulin, everyone orchestrates their own dinner, choosing the classic option (risotto with flap mushrooms from Lozère and juice from the roast), contemporary (pan-fried Saint-Jacques scallops with “perles du Japon”, seaweed tartare and a cappuccino of shell-fish) or light and natural (oven-baked tuna, market fresh vegetables, condiments prepared in the mortar). And what about dessert? “The crowning touch to a refined meal,” says Sylvain Mathy, head pastry-chef at La Villa des Lys. “A pleasure for both eyes and palate, creativity is essential to make a dessert a little masterpiece.” Here, it might be a hot Araguani chocolate soufflé, a creamy Arlette with candies and mokka ice-cream. Christian Plumail proposes a soufflé made with local lemons. And the star of this moment dedicated to sweetness and light, chocolate takes the form of an old-fashioned praline tarte (concocted by Jean-Michel Llorca) or a “crousti fondant” with praline, mango jelly and a mandarin sorbet at Lou Cigalon. Chez Mantel, a new head pastry-chef, Christian Gonthier, a pupil of Alain Ducasse, has joined the team. His speciality is miniature desserts presented on a big platter, from which it’s hard to choose ! So the recipe for a chic dinner is atmosphere first, a refined menu, wines on a par with the dishes and, while this gourmet experience lasts, time that stands still…
Mantel, 22 rue Saint-Antoine, 06400 Cannes (04 93 39 13 10). A la carte : approx. 70 €. Fouquet’s Cannes, 10 La Croisette, Cannes (04 92 98 77 05). Hôtel Columbus Monaco, 23 av des Papalins, Monaco (00 377 92 05 90 00). La Villa des Lys, 10 boulevard La Croisette, Cannes (04 92 98 77 05). Le Grand Balcon, 10 rue Saint-François-de-Paule (04 93 62 60 74). A la carte : approx. 60 €. Le Moulin de Mougins, avenue Notre-Dame de Vie, Mougins (04 93 75 78 24). A la carte : from 120 € to 170 €. Lou Cigalon, 4 boulevard Carnot, Valbonne (04 93 12 27 07). A la carte : from 70 to 100 €. L’Univers Christian Plumail, 54 boulevard Jean Jaurès, Cannes (04 93 62 32 22). A la carte : approx. 60 €.
By Cécile Olivéro - photos : press
