“cuisine niçoise”
Recipes in hand, that it is a real art. The art of eating well…
People don’t talk about “cuisine niçoise” by chance. The town and its surrounding region deserve the accolade and prove, recipes in hand, that it is a real art. The art of eating well…
People sometimes forget that Nice is a high temple of gastronomy. Orchards here provide variety and quality, “early” fruit and vegetables are found 6 months a year, fish is still plentiful and the town is known for farm-fresh cheese and even vineyard estates. Nice is in fact one of the rare cities in France to boast its own “appellation contrôlée” : Bellet wine, red, white and rosé. Unjustly called the “cuisine of the poor”, local dishes propose wide variety and lots of taste. From starter to dessert, the flavours of fresh produce, a tribute to olive-oil and aromatic plants (basil, rosemary, garlic, thyme…). Anyone who has not tasted “socca” (a pancake made with chick-pea flour), “pissaladière” (onion tart), “tourte aux blettes” (Swiss chard pie) or a “salade niçoise” can’t imagine what he’s missing ! Other essential examples include “petits farcis” (stuffed vegetables), ratatouille, stuffed sardines, ravioli niçois-style, “bagna cauda” (raw vegetables with anchovy sauce), courgette flowers cooked in batter and, in winter, “daube” (beef stew) and “estocaficada” (stew with cod, potatoes, tomatoes, pepperoni, onions, olives and garlic). Delicious and full of regional aromas, this cuisine is served, with equal success, at sophisticated addresses and restos in the narrow streets of Old Nice. “Chez René”, you sit at wooden tables specially for his “socca”, renowned as one of the best in Nice. Discreet but popular, “La Table Alziari” is run by Anne-Marie and André : everything is authentic, from aubergines in batter with warm goat’s cheese and mesclun salad to sweet Swiss chard pie. Really popular “nissart” cuisine, of which one never tires. Same goes for Brigitte Autier, who rules the roost at “L’Estocaficada”. On her menu, all the great classics… in French, English and Niçois ! With Bellet wines, of course. Then there are “L’Esquinade”, “Au Rendez-vous des Amis” and “La Cantine de Lulu”. Every Friday, Lulu simmers an “aïoli” (white fish with garlic sauce), “stockfish” or “bouillabaisse” (fish stew). Elisabeth and Thierry Bagnis (“Au Rendez-vous des Amis”) propose a terrine of violet artichokes, fennel with “aïoli”, roast rabbit and delicious puddings with plums and almonds in a countrified setting in the hills. Even though he left the Negresco for “La Merenda”, Dominique Le Stanc has lost none of his talent. As proof, his little bistro is always packed. Chef Dominique proposes tripe “à la niçoise”, “tartine au brous de Tende” and “stockfish” (on Fridays). No point trying to reserve, “La Merenda” has no phone. At “La Petite Maison”, however, it’s worth booking ahead : this address draws gourmets, local notables and celebrities from elsewehere… On the menu, you may well find shrimp salad, fried calamari or red-mullet, scrambled eggs with truffles, or “bouillabaisse” with John Dory. Finally, at “L’Univers-Christian Plumail”, the discreet chef conveys the spirit of Nice in all his dishes. Try his rock-mullet with rosemary and orange with vegetables “bagna cauda” style. A memorable experience !
Address-book
Au Rendez-vous des Amis, 176 av. de Rimiez, Nice (04 93 84 49 66). From 30 €. Chez René, 1 rue Pairolière, Nice (04 93 85 95 67). From 25 €. La Cantine de Lulu, 26 rue Alberti, Nice (04 93 62 15 33). From 25 €. La Merenda, 4 rue de la Terrasse, Nice. From 25 €. Neither cheques nor credit cards accepted. La Petite Maison, 11 rue Saint-François de Paule, Nice (04 93 92 59 59). From 30 €. La Table Alziari, 4 rue François-Zanin, Nice (04 93 80 34 03). From 30 €. L’Esquinade, 5 quai des Deux-Emmanuel,
Nice (04 93 89 59 36). From 30 €. L’Estocaficada, 2 rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Nice (04 93 80 21 64). From 25 €. L’Univers-Christian Plumail, 54 boulevard Jean-Jaurès, Nice (04 93 62 32 22). From 30 €.
By Cécile Olivéro - photos : press
