Flavours from afar
Just one little thing sometimes sets us off on a journey : a spice, a very specific taste, and there we are, on the far side of the world. Italian, Armenian, Japanese, Indian... These restaurants promise real exoticism.
When our transalpine neighbours opt for the art of seduction, they don’t beat about the bush ; they export their cuisine and go for the heart. In Nice, the Auberge de Théo stages typical Italian cheer and conviviality. On your plate, copious servings in the form of pizzas, pasta… In Cannes, Il Rigoletto has moved into a lovely building where the chef simmers succulent calves’ liver Venetian-style, spaghettini with prawns pan-fried in olive-oil and the classic risotto with asparagus tips. And what would Monaco be without Polpetta ? The Guasco brothers haven’t changed a thing for over 25 years and no-one dreams of complaining. But the major event in 2008 came by the name of Yoshi, Joël Robuchon’s new Japanese restaurant in the Hôtel Métropole. Decor, uniforms, service…, everything has been designed as in Japan, with the personnel going as far as to move around in total silence. On the menu : sushi, sashimi, teppan-yaki and a dizzy array of specialties all concocted with exemplary skill. Undoubtedly the most chic address on the Côte d’Azur. Less grandiose but just as welcoming, the atmosphere at Kamogawa reminds us that the Land of the Rising Sun calls for “Zen attitude”. In bowls and other containers, niguini, maki, sushi, sashimi, teriyaki (grilled) and tempura (fritters). Le Banh-Hoi in Saint-Tropez widens the choice by adding Thai and Vietnamese dishes to these Japanese recipes : Tonkin beef soup, grilled beef tenderloin in satay sauce, ravioli with pork and mushrooms. For dedicated fans of Bollywood productions, the Delhi Belhi reconstitutes the atmosphere of the Indian capital. We dream of distant lands while savouring samossa, tandoori chicken and naan bread, before sipping a coffee or massala tea with four spices. And what about Afghanistan ? A trip over there seems somewhat risky ; another reason for consoling oneself at Amou-Daria on the port of Nice, enjoying traditional egg-plant with yoghurt and “fromage blanc”, beef marinated in spices and steamed ravioli filled with spices. Armenia will be described to you by Lucie Panossian, with emphasis and spirit ; in this restaurant, each dish tells a story. Picked at random from its impressive menu : mezze-style tapas (beleks, aubergine caviar, keshkegs...), meatballs with herbs, kamyas and... loukoum. Le Poco Loco was France’s first Mexican restaurant to be listed by Gault & Millau. The room is cramped, the crowds still sqeeze in and it’s always advisable to book ahead if you’re set on getting a table. Don’t hesitate : the fajitas are delicious, the margaritas exhilarating (to be consumed in moderation). Thanks to Lalla Chama ben Moulay at the Palais Jamai, you'll be served like a king. On the menu, in addition to delicacy and ingenuity, you will appreciate all the richness of Morocco : tajines, pastillas and couscous (dare to order the one with 28 oriental spices). Once your gustatory experiments are over, nothing prevents you from paying a visit to your nearest travel agent to re-live the experience “in situ” !
Carnet
Amou-Daria, 26 quai Lunel, Nice (04 93 55 09 35). Palais Jamaï, 3 quai des Deux-Emmanuel, Nice (04 93 89 53 92). Delhi Belhi, 22 rue de la Barillerie, Nice (04 93 92 51 87). Kamogawa, 18 rue de la Buffa (04 93 88 75 88). L’auberge de théo, 52 av. Cap de Croix, Nice (04 93 81 26 19). Le Poco Loco, 2 rue Dalpozzo, Nice (04 93 88 85 83). Il Rigoletto, 60 bd d’Alsace, Cannes (04 93 43 32 19). Le Restaurant Arménien, 82 La Croisette, Cannes (04 93 94 00 58). Yoshi, Métropole Monte-Carlo, 4 av. de la Madone, Monaco (00 377 93 15 13 13). Polpetta, 2 rue Paradis, Monaco (00 377 93 50 67 84). Le Banh-Hoi, 12 rue du Petit Saint-Jean, Saint-Tropez (04 94 97 36 29).
By Cécile Olivéro
