Already in command of the Brasserie Bellanger and Dubillot, La Nouvelle Garde has given her elders a little sister. Pursuing the same vocation with the accent on fresh, French, and a traditional slate, the Brasserie Martin is a smart neighbourhood local where lives unfold around large, full tables or at the endless counter... Its epicentre ? A sexy roasting spit that rotates non-stop, delivering the sacrosanct roast chicken every lunchtime, here stuffed with olives and served with a scoop of homemade French fries. And don’t worry, the brand’s signature, the exceptional “saucisse-purée” still tops the list. A very welcome relapse !… Brasserie Martin, 24 rue Saint Ambroise, Paris 11. www.nouvellegardegroupe.com