The beloved tuber…
Black, white, summer or winter… Truffles are a rare commodity.
Black, white, summer or winter… Truffles are a rare commodity, highly-prized by chefs. Join the foray into the realm of high gastronomy…
He is quite indisputably the king. Bruno and truffles, a name and a word that are inseparable - and well-known to gourmets. Who, in fact, don’t think twice about “eating up” the miles to savour this precious delicacy. The pungent fungus blessed by the gods is served here in guises as diverse as they are varied : in flaky pastry, with potatoes, caramelized onions and olive-oil, in risotto… Nothing stops Bruno when he’s bent on invention. Not even the canning of Alba truffles, white and highly aromatic, or the more traditional black variety. In a totally different style - bistro this time -, Bruno’s Terres de Truffes is a famed port-of-call in Nice. Here, you nibble (for nibbling can also be chic) and are offered a choice (the palette is surprisingly wide). If you only have a few minutes to spare at lunchtime, order the “Truffle Tartine”. And console yourself by thinking that you can always call at the bistro’s grocery and take home all you need to continue your feast. Otherwise, opt for the potatoes with grey truffles from Burgundy and for dessert, treat yourself to the caramel chocolate “moelleux” - with truffles ! Originality doesn’t exclude the classics, so if you’re just longing for risotto with white Alba truffles, don’t be ashamed ! The region’s leading chefs all put it on their menus. From Mantel (who also proposes truffle carpaccio with courgettes and truffle-oil) to Stéphane Raimbault at L’Oasis. Here, you’ll let yourself be tempted by small stuffed vegetables and “mesclun” salad with Saint-Jean truffles, or a casserole of Bresse poultry with Saint-Jean truffles and celery hearts. Poultry again at the Château du Domaine Saint-Martin, this time spiked with truffles, roast on the spit and accompanied by market-fresh vegetables : Philippe Guérin (who formerly worked with Llorca and the Pourcel Brothers) offers insatiable fans the essential risotto with truffles, sprinkled with juice from the roast. For the “Dali of the ovens”, alias Christian Morisset, truffles have to come fresh from Aups, stop ! The result on your plate : oven-baked turbot with fresh truffles from Aups, “Tuber Melanosporum” in a crust of potatoes, parsley and fried onions, juice from the roast with sherry. A marvellous blend of flavours which become real accomplices to the fact.
If Roger Vergé’s retirement has left a rather bitter taste in your mouth, think again. Always appreciative of other people’s talents, Alain Llorca has kept Vergé’s “poupeton” of courgettes with truffles on the menu (a fine tribute !). This summer, he successfully tried his hand at farm eggs “à la plancha” with smoked bacon cream and grated summer truffles. Risotto ? Of course ! There it is on the menu, tagged “Italian-style risotto with fresh peas and grated summer truffles, juice of roast veal with Terre Bormane Taggiasca oil”. Last season’s novelty was described as “Macaroni stuffed with poultry and “foie gras”, grated Alba truffles, hazelnut butter and Parmesan with chicken stock”. On to Jacques Chibois, comfortably installed in the countryside near Grasse, between his olive-trees and drystone walls. This great fan of truffles even goes as far as to organize a Truffle Market. In 2005, it will be held on January 8th. As in the past few years, the chef will welcome exhibitors and visitors who meet up at lunchtime to savour recipes based on the precious tuber. Among the mainstays and most highly-esteemed concoctions, a “mousseux” of mushrooms with truffles and “foie gras”.
By Cécile Olivéro - Photos : press.
Address book
La Bastide Saint-Antoine, 48 av Henri-Dunant, Grasse (04 93 70 94 94). A la carte : approx. 137 €. La Terrasse Christian Morisset, La Pinède, avenue Gallice, Juan-les-Pins (04 93 61 08 70). A la carte : approx. 125 €. Le Château du Domaine Saint Martin, avenue des Templiers, Vence (04 93 58 02 02). A la carte : approx. 157 €. Le Moulin de Mougins, 424 chemin du Moulin, Quartier Notre-Dame-de-Vie, Mougins (04 93 75 78 24). A la carte : from 45 €. L’Oasis, rue Honoré-Carle, Mandelieu-La Napoule (04 93 49 95 52). A la carte : from 88 €. Mantel, 22 rue Saint-Antoine, Cannes (04 93 39 13 10). A la carte : approx. 100 €. Restaurant Chez Bruno, 2350 route des Arcs, Lorgues (04 94 85 93 93). Menus : 54, 100 and 110 €. A la carte : from 70 €. Terres de Truffes, 11 rue Saint-François-de-Paule, Nice (04 93 62 07 68). Sandwiches and daily specials : from 15 €.
