The black diamond
The truffle inspires our chefs and whets the appetite of gourmets.
A discreet and earthy mushroom, the truffle inspires our chefs and whets the appetite of gourmets. Both summer and winter varieties add something special to every dish.
Who would have guessed that it was the popes who came to Avignon who set the trend for truffles ? Renowned chefs such as Carême and Brillat-Savarin then gave them their letters of nobility, and today no restaurant worthy of the name will omit the “tuber melanosporum” from its menu. Every year in Grasse, at the “Bastide Saint-Antoine”, Jacques Chibois dedicates an entire day to truffles, inviting amateurs and professionals to meet up beneath the olive-trees (next rendez-vous January 6th, 2007). On his menu, summer truffles are accompanied by chanterelle mushrooms and green beans chilled on ice with “foie gras”. Bruno, of course, works with truffles 365 days a year in his bistro in Nice called “Terre de Truffes”. Black or white, from near or far, this precious commodity can be simply classic or unexpectedly original : “foie gras” in flaky pastry with smoked bacon, risotto with white Alba truffle cream, then soups,“tartines” or Brie cheese with truffles and walnut salad, or a melting chocolate and caramel dessert… with truffles.
In the county of the Var, a young chef by the name of Sébastien Sanjou (“Le Relais des Moines”) orchestrates a complete menu around the black diamond, using only those from the Upper Var. This suggestion is limited to the season, and is thus even more appealing. Jean-Marc Delacourt, chef at the restaurant “Parcours”, also proposes an “all truffle” experience, just as limited in time. Then there are all those addresses where inspired chefs who man the ovens slip a few slivers of truffles into their recipes. Frédéric Buzet at “La Passagère” proposes potatoes or risotto garnished with summer truffles. Jean-Yves Johany at “Le Cagnard” offers risotto with crayfish and truffle butter-sauce, Daniel Desavie, chef and owner of the restaurant of the same name, concocts an oxtail consommé with truffle “quenelles”, and Luigi Fiore at “Le Manoir de l’Etang” serves a traditional risotto with truffles. In Nice, fans will savour the pungent truffle gastronomic style at “L’Univers-Christian Plumail” with a salad of octopus and pepperoni, carpaccio of courgettes and calf trotters with summer truffles ; trendy style at “La Petite Maison” (scrambled egg with truffles) and finally bistro style at “La Part des Anges”. Olivier Labarde is not only an expert on wines but also a friendly host : on his slate you will read “ox cheek stew with black truffles from the Hugou brothers”, which is served on bistro tables with a glass of wine selected by Olivier himself. For sumptuous occasions, head for the Principality of Monaco and “Joël Robuchon”. With skill and inventiveness, Christophe Cussac here interprets great Robuchonian ideas (such as crayfish ravioli, truffles and steamed cabbage) and, this autumn, caramelized quail with potato purée spiked with truffles. And if you ever get the urge to test your culinary talents on the theme of truffles, remember that “Terre de Truffes” is also a refined grocery shop where you can buy truffle cream, fondue with white truffles, truffle-flavoured “marc” (brandy)… All you need for an exceptional menu.
Address-book
Daniel Desavie, 1360 route d’Antibes, Valbonne (04 93 12 29 68). Approx. 50 €. La Bastide Saint-Antoine, 48 avenue Henri-Dunant, Grasse (04 93 70 94 94). A la carte : approx. 100 €. La Part des Anges, 17 rue Gubernatis, Nice (04 93 62 69 80). From 25 €. La Passagère, Hôtel Belles Rives, 33 boulevard Edouard-Baudoin, Juan-les-Pins (04 93 61 02 79). Approx. 60 €. La Petite Maison, 11 rue Saint-François-de-Paule, Nice (04 93 92 59 59). Approx. 50 €. Le Cagnard, 1 rue du Ponti Long, Cagnes-sur-Mer (04 93 20 73 21). Approx. 60 €. Le Manoir de l’Etang, Bois de Font-Merle, 66 allée du Manoir, Mougins (04 92 28 36 00). Approx. 70 €. Le Relais des Moines, route de Sainte-Roseline, Les Arcs-sur-Argens (04 94 47 40 93). Menu « Les exclusifs » : 83 €. L’Univers-Christian Plumail, 54 boulevard Jean-Jaurès, Nice (04 93 62 32 22). Approx. 50 €. Parcours, 1 place Marcel-Eusebi, Falicon (04 93 84 94 57). Menu « Autour de la truffe » : 96 €. Restaurant Joël Rebuchon, Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo, 4 avenue de la Madone, Monaco (00 377 93 15 15). Approx. 90 €. Terre de Truffes, 11 rue Saint-François-de-Paule, Nice (04 93 62 07 68). Approx. 40 €.
By Cécile Olivéro - photos : press
