The call of the sea

We know them as fish restaurants. Their chefs often rely on local fishermen and carnivores are not invited to their tables. Here it’s more like Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea…

Overlooking the Mediterranean or not, semi-gastro or more family-oriented, the menu is dedicated to marine offerings. The ideal being to combine a view and the taste of the open sea. As at Le Restaurant de Bacon, a reference for three decades for “bouillabaisse” and fish soup. Equally famous, even if this address does not overlook the Deep Blue Sea, Astoux Brun is known as an obligatory port-of-call in Cannes. In addition to its platters of shell-fish, cutomers appreciate simply grilled fish from the local catch. But let’s return to the view. From the terrace of La Bourride in the Cros de Cagnes, one looks Cap d'Antibes right in the eye, in front of fish soup or pan-fried turbot with violet artichokes. Is fish soup perhaps the link between all these tables ? How could it be otherwise ? It’s savoured Chez Loulou La Réserve, with “galinettes”, weevers, gurnards and small “cicadas” (really delicious). When in season, one can’t resist a “poutine” omelette. "The fish are all caught on the high seas," we’re assured here. It can also be ordered at L’Oursin Bleu, a restaurant designed like a yacht, with port-holes and deck-style terrace. Unless you opt for the original pizza with cod with prawns or traditional John Dory with small fried squid. In Monaco, Castelroc remains the favourite meeting-place for fans of family cooking. Ideally located on the Place du Palais, this restaurant has a terrace beneath the pines and a lovely sea view. A star feature on the menu, “stockfish” with “brandade”, followed by crispy cod and mashed Pigna coco beans. The latest address to date in the fairly closed club of good fish restaurants, Les Pêcheurs in Nice focuses on fresh and seasonal products. Yanis, the chef, prepares them in recipes combining flavours from the Mediterranean, Indochina and the Indian Ocean. In the dining-room with its sober contemporary decor or on the terrace, perfect for watching the boats sail out to sea, Aurélie serves the “Marmite des Pêcheurs” with its “croûtons” and “rouille”, crisp sea-bass with Provençal honey and small, crunchy violet artichokes, sea-bream Royal in a crust of salt... There’s no point searching for a view of the Med when you open the door to Les Viviers and Le Bistrot des Viviers. You can smell it, it is so present in both the gastronomic restaurant and its bistro-style neighbour. Chef David Vaque knows all the secrets of pan-fried fillets of red mullet, oven-baked tile-bar or turbot with cooking juice from Chinese truffles. If you like the 1900’s brasserie style, reserve your table at the Bistrot and let the smell of iodine and marine flavours waft towards you.

Carnet

On the terrace and in the dining-room, “Les Pêcheurs” proposes refined and fragrant cuisine based on the bounty of the sea. The morning catch and real expertise for very tasty recipes.

On the terrace and in the dining-room, “Les Pêcheurs” proposes refined and fragrant cuisine based on the bounty of the sea. The morning catch and real expertise for very tasty recipes.

For lunch or dinner in the town centre under the sign of Pisces, the restaurant Les Viviers is a must.

For lunch or dinner in the town centre under the sign of Pisces, the restaurant Les Viviers is a must.

View of the Mediterranean and the mountains for the Restaurant de Bacon, an institution where fish reigns supreme.

View of the Mediterranean and the mountains for the Restaurant de Bacon, an institution where fish reigns supreme.

Astoux-Brun, 27 avenue Félix-Faure, Cannes (04 93 39 21 87). Starting at 30 €. Restaurant de Bacon, 664 boulevard de Bacon, Cap d’Antibes (04 93 61 50 02). Menu : 79 €. Carte : approx. 110 €. Loulou la Réserve, 91 boulevard de la Plage, Cagnes-sur-Mer (04 93 31 00 17). Menus : 42 € et 49 €. Carte : approx. 70 €. La Bourride, port de Cros de Cagnes, Cagnes-sur-Mer (04 93 31 07 75). Menu : 39 €. Carte : environ 50 €. Bouillabaisse : 45 €/personne. Les Pêcheurs, 18 quai des Docks, Nice (04 93 89 59 61). Menus : 28 € et 38 €. Carte : approx. 38 €. Les Viviers + Le bistrot des Viviers, 22 rue Alphonse-Karr, Nice (04 93 16 00 48). Approx. 55 €. L’Oursin Bleu, 11 quai Amiral Courbet, Villefranche-sur-Mer (04 93 01 90 12). Starting at 30 €. Castelroc, place du Palais, Monaco (00 377 93 30 36 68). Starting at 30 €.

By Cécile Olivero.