Nestling at the heart of Montmartre, this gastronomic restaurant which has just had a revamp welcomes chef Octave Kasakolu to its kitchens, formerly of Le Raphael and winner of two "toques" in the Gault & Millau guide. Here he prepares "unfussy, personal cuisine, close to the earth". A succession of elegant and delicate dishes, amazing for their flavour, such as Kobe beef tartar with Daurenki caviar from Petrossian. Les Tantes Jeanne also offers a cellar with 600 wines selected by the young head sommelier, Gabriele Calegarine. Les Tantes Jeanne, 42 rue Véron, Paris 18 (01 42 51 14 21).