This Genoese institution which has welcomed all the Popes since it opened in 1939 has treated itself to a Parisian replica at the very heart of the 8th arrondissement. We owe this fine initiative to Riccardo Giraudi, the restaurant owner behind the Beefbars, who has decked out the setting in chic taste with velvet, woodwork and marble. In the dishes, ultra-premium ingredients and pasta to die for, including the legendary “Mandili al pesto di Zeffirino”, prepared on the spot before your very eyes. Divine ! Zeffirino, 9-11 rue Marbeuf, Paris 8. (01 84 21 09 19). Ouvert tous les jours.