An expert in the bounty of the sea, Gérald Passedat, famous star-rated chef from Marseille, has come up with an inventive menu giving pride of place to the Mediterranean. The dining-room has also had a change of decor. Under the tutelage of architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, its legendary atmosphere has stepped into the 21st century while preserving its ornamentation midway between Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Brasserie Lutetia, 46 boulevard Raspail, Paris 6 (01 49 54 46 92).