Chef Jean-Luc Rocha took over the kitchens at Le Saint-James Paris in January. He acquired his mastery of high gastronomy alongside Patrick Henriroux at the 2-star Pyramide de Vienne before becoming Thierry Marx's Executive Chef at the Château Cordeillan-Bages in 2002. A chef designated "Meilleur Ouvrier de France" when only 30 years old, his iconic dishes at this "Relais et Châteaux" address include warm "foie gras" in a crust of sesame and poppy seeds, pickled vegetables and chestnut cream, Velouté of potatoes, Papin oysters and caviar from Aquitaine, and a Supreme of leg of pigeon in “pot au feu” style. Saint-James, 43 avenue Bugeaud, Paris 16 (01 44 05 81 81).