Christian Le Squer, triple star-rated chef, perpetuates the art of living “à la française” with traditional cuisine which, in his expert hands, has gained in modernity and lightness. After taking over the kitchens at the George V in November, he has come up with a menu reflecting contemporary taste, which he describes as “brimming with emotions”. Four Seasons George V, 31 avenue George V, Paris 8 (01 49 52 71 54).